The Rise of "Dupes": How Affordable Replicas Are Reshaping the Luxury Industry

In the evolving landscape of fashion and luxury goods, a significant trend has emerged that sits in the gray area between inspiration and imitation: the "dupe" phenomenon. Unlike traditional counterfeits that illegally reproduce logos and trademarks, dupes are products deliberately designed to resemble high-end luxury items without explicitly claiming to be the original brand. This trend is transforming consumer behavior, challenging luxury brands, and potentially reshaping the entire luxury sector.

What Are Dupes? Understanding the Difference from Counterfeits

The term "dupe" comes from "duplicate," referring to products made to resemble more expensive or higher-quality items. Unlike counterfeits—which are illegal reproductions of protected designs complete with logos—dupes draw inspiration from luxury designs while attempting to remain within legal boundaries.

As Delphine Brunet-Stoclet, a Paris-based intellectual property lawyer, explains: "The 'dupe' phenomenon has significantly grown over the past year. Unlike counterfeiting, which is a criminal offense, duping falls under civil liability and is considered an act of unfair competition."

This distinction is crucial because while counterfeiting is criminally punishable in most jurisdictions, dupes exist in a legally ambiguous space that luxury brands are only beginning to address through civil litigation.

The Viral "Not a Birkin Bag" Phenomenon

Perhaps no example better illustrates the dupe trend than Walmart's controversial "Wirkin" or "Working Class Birkin" bag. Priced between $78 and $102—compared to authentic Hermès Birkin bags that start at $10,000 and can exceed $400,000—these bags closely mimicked the iconic shape, lock, and design elements of the Birkin without using the Hermès name or logo.

The products went viral on social media, with TikTok users showcasing their affordable "Birkin dupes," causing the items to repeatedly sell out on Walmart's website. The bags weren't marketed as Birkins, but their design similarities were unmistakable, sparking debates about the legality and ethics of such replicas.

Walmart eventually removed these bags from their website after they gained significant attention. While the retailer has remained tight-lipped about the specific reason, legal experts believe Hermès likely sent cease-and-desist letters threatening legal action. In February 2025, Axel Dumas, Executive Chairman of Hermès International, announced plans to take legal action against the manufacturers of the "Wirkin," comparing the trend to AI-powered plagiarism.

Legal Consequences: When Brands Fight Back

While dupes occupy a gray area, luxury brands are increasingly pursuing legal action against what they consider parasitic business practices. Several high-profile cases demonstrate the potential consequences for companies making dupes:

Chanel vs. Jonak (2024)

In October 2024, the Paris Court of Appeal ruled against shoe brand Jonak for replicating the distinctive features of Chanel's iconic beige/black "slingback" shoes. The court found that Jonak's designs constituted "parasitism"—unjustly benefiting from the know-how, human effort, and financial investments made by Chanel.

Jonak was ordered to pay €150,000 in economic damages and €30,000 in moral damages. The court also imposed an injunction preventing Jonak from advertising and selling the infringing shoes, with penalties of €1,000 per day, and ordered a recall of all infringing products.

Céline vs. Mango (2023)

In another landmark case, Mango was sentenced by the Paris Court of Appeal to pay €2 million in damages for systematically copying Céline designs. Notably, the judge based the decision not on traditional intellectual property infringement but on "the unfairness of market practices and Mango's parasitism, which time and again resulted in various products that were clearly and strongly 'inspired' by Céline designs."

The Future of Luxury in a Dupe-Friendly World

The growing acceptance of dupes signals a potential shift in consumer values. As younger consumers (particularly Gen Z) embrace dupes as socially acceptable alternatives to luxury items, brands may need to reconsider their value propositions.

According to a Business Insider survey cited in a LinkedIn post by a legal expert, 71% of Gen Z consumers say they're open to buying dupes. This suggests that traditional luxury marketing focused solely on exclusivity and heritage may need to evolve.

At HIM Business School, we help our students understand these evolving trends in marketing and communication. By analyzing the complex interplay between luxury brands, affordable alternatives, legal frameworks, and consumer behavior, we prepare future business leaders to navigate an increasingly nuanced marketplace where the boundaries between inspiration and imitation continue to blur.